This summer one of the most original requests came to me through the Gelato Project: a gastronomic ice cream version reinterpretation of brandacujun.
Brandacujun is a traditional Ligurian dish, also popular in Piedmont, and made with stockfish. Also known as brand de cujun, this dish is distinguished by its vigorous preparation, in which stockfish and potatoes are blended with garlic, parsley and oil until a creamy consistency is achieved. The name itself refers to the action of “brandishing” the mixture, mixing it energetically, which requires a certain amount of force, hence the dialect expression that defines it.
This reinterpretation of the classic Ligurian brandacujun, stems from a desire to bring the familiar flavors of stockfish and potatoes into a modern and sophisticated context. In today’s recipe, I used desalted cod and turned it into a creamy gourmet ice cream, accompanied by a diced garlic and parsley flavored potato, recreating the texture of a mock tartare. On top, a taggiasca olive powder adds savoriness to the dish and a crispy parsley tuile adds a crunchy and aromatic element, completing the dish with elegance and contrasting textures.
Ingredients (for 4 people)
Gastronomic cod ice cream
- The recipe for gastronomic cod ice cream can be found in the Gelato Project, starting with version 6.2, along with hundreds of other mouth-watering recipes!
Parsley potato cubes
- 2 medium-sized potatoes (firm when cooked)
- 1 clove of garlic
- 1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley
- Extra virgin olive oil q.b.
- Salt and pepper to taste.
Garlic confit at low temperature
- 100 g garlic
- 100 g neutral oil (grape seed or sunflower seed)
Light garlic emulsion
- 50 g confit garlic (drained)
- 50 g water
- 100 g olive oil
- 2 g of salt
- 0.5 g sucrose esters (or 1 egg yolk)
Parsley tuile
- 50 g olive oil
- 50 g of sifted flour
- 60 g egg whites (approx. 2 egg whites)
- 10 g dried and pulverized parsley
- 10 g of powdered sugar
- 2 g of salt
Taggiasca olive powder
- 50 g taggiasca olives
Steps
Parsley potato cubes
We want to achieve a turgid texture and a perfect cubed shape, so I chose a quick steaming and then flavor the potatoes quickly in a pan with oil and garlic. They should then be served warm with chopped parsley (almost like a potato salad).
Peel and cut potatoes into regular cubes of approx. 0.5 cm side. Steam for 5 minutes at 100°C.
Saute for 2 minutes with oil and garlic, then keep aside and season with chopped parsley and a pinch of salt.
Light garlic emulsion
For the garlic cream, we want to achieve an emulsion with a mild garlic flavor, not too pungent or prominent. For this I opted for low-temperature confit cooking of the garlic in neutral oil, and then creating the emulsion with olive oil. The remaining neutral oil (which will have become garlicy after cooking) can be used to flavor a spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino 😉
Place peeled garlic cloves in a sterilized jar and fill almost flush with neutral oil. Alternatively, use a low-temperature cooking bag and vacuum condition.
Cook garlic in oil in a thermostatic bath at 88°C for 2 hours.
Drain the garlic and whisk it with water first until thick, then add the emulsifier and salt and pour in the oil in a drizzle, mixing until smooth.
Parsley tuile
Blend all ingredients and place in a piping bag. Allow to rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Spread a thin layer of the dough on the leaf-shaped molds and bake at 180°C (350°F) for about 7 minutes, until the edges begin to brown.
Taggiasca olive powder
Chop the olives and let them dry in a ventilated oven (4-6 hours at 80°C). Pulverize them with a spice grinder and dry them again in the oven for a few hours.
Gastronomic cod ice cream
The recipe for gastronomic cod ice cream can be found in the Gelato Project, starting with version 6.2, along with hundreds of other mouth-watering recipes!
Plating
Arrange the diced potatoes in the center of a plate with the help of a pastry cup. Pass a little parsley powder with the help of a strainer. Spread a base of garlic cream.
Lay a quenelle of cod ice cream on top of the potatoes.
Top with the parsley tuile upright or lightly resting on the quenelle.
Learn the secrets of ice cream
If you want to discover the secrets of making unique ice creams, explore my online courses to learn at your own pace. For those who want innovative recipes without going into too much detail about balancing, the Gelato Project always offers new ideas!
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